Salad's got nothin' on this mutton

Plus the new oldest Chinese food restaurant in America.

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New York foodies know that the go-to order at the iconic Keens Steakhouse isn’t a steak at all—it’s the mutton chop. Outside of retro oddities like that and Easter dinners, Americans don’t traditionally eat much sheep. But that’s changing. 

Arabella Paulovich explores the resurgence of mutton in the United States. New generations of restaurateurs from New York to Ojai, California, are highlighting the flavorful meat and supporting local farmers (including Keens!). The vast majority of American mutton and lamb currently comes from Australia and New Zealand, but Paulovich highlights the work of local farmers who are bringing back sustainable native shepherding. These practices protect the land while delivering unmatched flavor. 

Next time you see mutton on the menu, give it a shot. You’re not just trying something delicious, you are helping to grow a burgeoning American industry. No mint jelly required. 

Read it: Mutton’s Big Comeback 

Read

The Olympics generated a million stories, but one of my favorites was a profile of the tiny Chinese restaurant located a few blocks from the Paris table tennis venue. The restaurant became a hub and unofficial clubhouse for the sports fans, coaches, and players. 

As we get pumped up for the Paralympics, check in on Sumera Subzwari’s account of what it’s like to be a disabled mushroom forager. It’s a lovely exploration of how hobbies can be healing even when they are hard. 

Part of the pandemic recovery has been the rise of pop-up restaurants and dinners. Young chefs are forgoing the trappings of brick-and-mortar locations. Luke Pyenson makes a connection between these short-term, underground restaurants and the indie music scene by examining the style and artwork of their promotional posters. This is a great read 

After you read that, take a trip back in time and check out Emily Wilson’s first profile of the team at Ha’s Đậc Biệt, one of the most prominent restaurant pop-ups. 

How well do you know global food delivery? (This is the hardest quiz ever. I got two out of nine correct.)

Pete Wells, restaurant critic for the New York Times, stepped down this summer. If you missed it, make sure you read his final essay on the state of restaurants. It’s incisive, relevant far beyond New York, and won’t leave you optimistic. But then cheer yourself up with his final review, which highlights the kind of restaurant that makes New York—and America—great. 

An unassuming diner in Woodland, California, has been named the oldest Chinese restaurant in America. The Los Angeles Times profiles the Chicago Cafe, where a regular who noticed a sign that said “from 1903” led to a research project and newfound fame. This is a beautiful story about family and the Chinese American immigrant experience. 

Cook

A friend visited me over the weekend and, while sharing how much she loves her Western Massachusetts CSA, joked about what a lot of us know: It’s a battle each week to use everything up before it goes bad. She said that, before she left home, she sliced and fried half a dozen giant eggplants into cutlets, which all went into the freezer. That’s a great idea, and it got me thinking of a few more ways to make a dent in those summer vegetables. 

Fried eggplant can pair with more than just marinara and mozzarella cheese. Try it with Nik Sharma’s mint yogurt sauce as part of a larger meal. Or skip the breading and make eggplant part of a tomato and swordfish pasta sauce.

Based on your confidence with baking, a vegetable galette can be a simple weeknight dinner or a more ambitious weekend project. Zola Gregory’s corn galette with chile oil sounds perfect for either. I bet you could substitute tomato for corn and still have it come out great.

Corn stock sounds silly, but I made some last summer and was shocked by how bright and flavorful it was. Freeze it or use it immediately to make the best corn chowder of your life. 

You can only eat so many plums hunched over the sink like an animal. Fold stone fruits into your smoothies to take advantage of their sweetness (it’s also a great use for ones that are a bit bruised). Or make a cake with some nearly perfect peaches. 

Ratatouille is the king of late-summer “oh god I have too many vegetables” dishes. Heidi Swanson makes hers on the grill, while JJ Goode serves his cold. 

Watch, stream, listen

What a great week on This Is TASTE. Have you tuned in? If you like the show, drop a review on Apple or Spotify. It’s a great way to help other people find us. 

Claire Saffitz & Andy Baraghani, cookbook authors and legends of the Bon Appétit cinematic universe, stop by to chat about what they’ve been up to. It’s two great conversations with an underlying thread—how do you chart a modern career in food media? 🎙LISTEN

Sahra Nguyen, the founder of Nguyen Coffee Supply, talks about the trials and tribulations of growing her business while balancing her values. It’s always fun to hear Matt geek out about coffee. A personal recommendation: I picked up some Nguyen coffee after hearing an earlier interview with Sahra. It makes an unreal cold brew at home.  🎙LISTEN

Priyanka Mattoo is a Hollywood executive and the author of Bird Milk & Mosquito Bones, a memoir of food and place. She visited the TASTE studios to talk about her journey and dive into food TV.  🎙LISTEN

If you aren’t subscribing to This Is TASTE on Apple Podcasts, Spotify, or Amazon, click that button now. It’s the best way to ensure you won’t miss an episode, and we have so many good ones coming out weekly. 

One of my favorite non-food podcasts is Criminal. Host Phoebe Judge explores the world of crime, telling stories that can be heartbreaking or hilarious but are always entertaining. Earlier this summer, she dug into the complicated and farcical legal history behind margarine. 

Out of Context J. Gold of the week

“You realize that if you write about Casa Bianca,” he said, “I’m going to have to kill you. Slowly. After I break both your legs. It’s hard enough to get in on a Saturday night as it is.” link