Korsha Wilson, writing in Eater, reflects on how the restaurants we celebrate reflect the overwhelming whiteness of the fine dining and food writing world. She reflects on The Grill, New York’s high end throwback to mid-century dining. For a black woman, that very fantasy isn’t as delightful as it might be for the largely white men who have fete’ed it. This is an extremely “beginning of 2019 in the food world” essay in the best way possible. The anecdote at the end of the essay is so perfect it feels staged.